A Glimpse into History 

History bears testimony to the exquisite craftsmanship of India. The Rigveda mentions the weaving of wool and silk. The Indus Valley Civilization provides some of the earliest archaeological evidence for textiles, with remnants of cotton threads and dyeing vats discovered at sites in Harappa and Mohenjo-daro (present-day Sindh, Pakistan). 

Laila Tyabji, in her influential book Threads and Voices: Behind the Indian Textile Tradition (2007), beautifully expresses the ancient roots of Indian handlooms. She highlights the far-reaching trade of these textiles across the world, including ancient Egypt and Rome. 

During the medieval period, Indian handlooms flourished under the patronage of various dynasties. The Mughal era saw the peak of handloom craftsmanship with the introduction of intricate designs and luxurious fabrics such as Banarasi brocade, Jamdani, and Pashmina. These textiles were highly prized and traded across continents, establishing India's reputation as a center of exquisite craftsmanship. 

Woven Heritage: Textile Traditions of India (2001) by Jasleen Dhamija provides a comprehensive overview of this era, illustrating the opulence and diversity of Mughal textiles. 

Colonial Impact and Resilience 

The Swadeshi Movement, which was launched in 1905 aimed to promote self-reliance by encouraging the use of indigenous products and boycotting British goods. This marked a significant milestone in undermining British economic interests in India and promoting national unity and independence. 

The British colonial period had been marked by severe disruptions to the handloom industry. The influx of cheap, machine-made textiles from Britain led to the decline of indigenous weaving. Even then, the resilience of Indian weavers persisted. The Swadeshi Movement of 1905 played a crucial role in reviving the handloom sector. In her book, Handmade in India: A Geographic Encyclopaedia of Indian Handicrafts (2009), Aditi Ranjan explores the regional variations of Indian handlooms and the impact of colonial rule on these traditions. This extensive work highlights the diversity and adaptability of handloom weavers across India. 

The first National Handloom Day was inaugurated on August 7, 2015, by Prime Minister Narendra Modi in Chennai.

On this day, we honour our handloom-weaving community and acknowledge the sector's significant contribution to our country's socioeconomic development. We reaffirm our commitment to safeguarding our handloom heritage, financially empowering handloom weavers and workers, and instilling pride in their exquisite craftsmanship. 

The Heritage of Weaving 

Each region of India boasts its own unique weaving techniques and styles, contributing to a diverse and colourful textile tradition. India offers a diverse range of saris, stoles, patakas (wraps), shawls, dupattas, home furnishings, and garments. India boasts a variety of traditional weaves that are still relevant and widely practiced. To name a few, Awadh Jamdani, Jacquard Silks, Jamawar and Cotton Jamdani, Raktambari, Shweatmbari, Peetambari Nilambari of Banaras, which are made with natural dyes, the elegant Chanderi’s of Madhya Pradesh, Paithani tapestry weave of Maharashtra, Kunbi of Goa, Muga of Assam, Kullu weaves of Himachal Pradesh, Mysore silk of Karntaka, Ikats from Odisha, Gujarat, and Andhra Pradesh, Ashawali, Panetars from Gujarat, Tamil Nadu’s Kanjeevaram, Naga shawls of Nagaland, Panja Dhurrie of Punjab, Apatani weave from Arunachal Pradesh, Kosa Silk of Chhattisgarh, Manipur’s Moirangphee, Phanek, Bengal Baluchari, and Jamdani, Jammu & Kashmir’s Pashmina, and many more. 

Current Scenario  

The handloom sector is the largest contributor to individual income, second only to the agricultural sector. There are currently over 23.77 Lakh looms that engage over 35 Lakh artisans, either directly or indirectly. The sector provides opportunities for over 25 Lakh female weavers and allied workers. According to the most recent data, India produces over 95% of handwoven fabrics worldwide. The US holds the title of the top export destination for handlooms that are produced in India, followed by the UK, Italy, and Germany. Over 125 countries globally are buying handloom products from India. 

In an era of fast fashion and environmental concerns, handlooms offer a sustainable and ethical alternative. Government initiatives, NGOs, and private enterprises are working tirelessly to support handloom weavers. Schemes such as the National Handloom Development Scheme (NHDP), India Handloom Mark, e-commerce platforms for handloom products, PM Vishwakarma, the Yarn Supply Scheme (YSS), and the promotion of handlooms through events and exhibitions are creating new opportunities for artisans. 

Organizations such as the Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC) and the Development Commissioner for Handlooms (DCH) are working to increase the visibility and marketability of handloom products, both domestically and internationally. 

Celebrating National Handloom Day 

National Handloom Day is not just a celebration of India's textile heritage, rather, it is a call to action to preserve and promote this timeless craft. By investing in the handloom sector, we can ensure that the artisanal skills and livelihoods of millions of weavers are sustained for future generations. As we honour the legacy of Indian handlooms, let us weave a future that is both prosperous and respectful of our rich cultural traditions.